On this pageSpend & risk By supplier Supplier table

Craft & Supply 360

The craft-supply lens — fibre, mills, ateliers, dye houses & tanneries: spend, terms and supply risk, with the cash and continuity move for each partner.

The Stark Group · FY26 (modeled)

Luxury to-the-trade — designers & architects only (no retail)

670 employees · 12+ US sites · 8 countries

▲ Executive read· the answer, then the moves

Fibre is the swing cost — wool & silk are the largest spend lines and the key driver of bespoke gross margin. Paying to terms frees £0m of cash at no cost to profit (DPO 46d vs the 45-day target); capture it, dual-source the 3 at-risk suppliers, and consolidate the top tier before fibre supply tightens.

4 of 4 headline metrics improving vs prior · still off target: DPO (Days Payable) 46d vs 50d, Blended Gross Margin 55.0% vs 57.0%, Total Revenue £165m vs £178m

Do now — ranked by urgency

1
Dual-source the 3 at-risk suppliersWatch
Why it matters
Hand-knotting ateliers (India / Nepal / Thailand) & Silk filament suppliers (China/India) & Dye houses & finishing carry medium+ supply risk and softer delivery — a single stretch in fibre or atelier lead times can stall bespoke orders.
What's driving it
3 of 6 suppliers at medium+ risk
Avg OTIF 90% across the panel
FYI
Qualify a backup on the most exposed fibres before silk/fine-wool supply tightens
Owner: Sourcing & Craft
Plan sourcing →
2
Pay to terms — free working capitalOpportunity
Why it matters
£0m of cash stays in the business by moving DPO from 46d to the 45-day target on £55m of spend — no hit to margin.
What's driving it
DPO 46d vs 45d target
£55m spend across 6 partners
FYI
Early-pay discount capture ≈ 0% today — switch it on
Owner: CFO · Treasury
Capture cash →
3
Consolidate the top tier for rebate and priority supplyOpportunity
Why it matters
NZ / merino wool growers (£14m) and Hand-knotting ateliers (India / Nepal / Thailand) (£12m) are 47% of spend — concentrating volume earns rebates and priority allocation on scarce fibre.
What's driving it
Top two partners = £26m (47% of £55m)
6 partners total
FYI
Negotiation priority for the next term cycle
Owner: Sourcing & Craft · CFO
Negotiate →

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↗ Where this connects — act / drill across

🛰Market Intel & M&A· supplier distress signals 💵Cash 360· DPO as a cash lever 🔧Project / Job 360· where the materials land

● LiveBuilt forCFO · Treasury· free cash via payment termsSourcing & Craft· consolidate spend & cut fibre riskCOO · Craft Ops· protect craft supply continuity

£55m of wool, silk, weaving, dyeing & hides runs through six partners — and fibre cost is the key driver of bespoke margin. This view turns that into two moves: a £-0.20342465753424654m cash release from paying to terms, and a dual-source plan for the 3 suppliers whose delivery risk could stall bespoke orders.

Data backing: supplier (spend, score, OTIF, RMA, DPO, risk) · kpi.dpo · kpi.revenue/gross_margin

Total spend

£55m

6 partners

Days to pay (DPO)

46d

target 45d

Cash from terms

£-0.20342465753424654m

pay to 45d

Avg on-time (OTIF)

90%

delivery reliability

At supply risk

medium+ risk

Where the money goes

Spend by supplier

Wool & silk lead the spend — the top two partners are 47% of the bill and the negotiation priorities.

The two moves

What to do this quarter

Pay to terms — free cash

£-0.20342465753424654m

DPO 46d → 45d on £55m of spend, plus switch on early-pay discount capture (≈0% today). No hit to profit.

Owner: CFO · Treasury

Dual-source the risk

3 suppliers

Hand-knotting ateliers (India / Nepal / Thailand) & Silk filament suppliers (China/India) & Dye houses & finishing carry medium supply risk and softer delivery — qualify a backup before fibre lead times stretch.

Owner: Sourcing & Craft

Consolidate the top tier

£26m

NZ / merino wool growers (£14m) and Hand-knotting ateliers (India / Nepal / Thailand) (£12m) — concentrate volume for rebates and priority allocation.

Owner: Sourcing & Craft · CFO

Partner by partner

Supplier scorecards

Each card: spend, reliability and the specific move.

NZ / merino wool growers

Wool & natural fibre · £14m spend

Low

Score

OTIF

94%

RMA

1.4%

DPO

48d

Move: Healthy partner (score 90, OTIF 94%). Consolidate more volume here to earn rebate and priority supply.

Hand-knotting ateliers (India / Nepal / Thailand)

Hand-knotting · £12m spend

Medium

Score

OTIF

86%

RMA

1.8%

DPO

50d

Move: Dual-source — medium risk, OTIF 86%. Qualify a second supplier on the most exposed fibres/SKUs before tight fibre supply stretches lead times.

European fabric mills (Italy / France)

Weaving mills · £11m spend

Low

Score

OTIF

93%

RMA

1.1%

DPO

46d

Move: Healthy partner (score 91, OTIF 93%). Consolidate more volume here to earn rebate and priority supply.

Silk filament suppliers (China/India)

Silk & fibre · £9m spend

Medium

Score

OTIF

90%

RMA

DPO

45d

Move: Dual-source — medium risk, OTIF 90%. Qualify a second supplier on the most exposed fibres/SKUs before tight fibre supply stretches lead times.

Dye houses & finishing

Dyeing & finishing · £5m spend

Medium

Score

OTIF

88%

RMA

2.3%

DPO

42d

Move: Dual-source — medium risk, OTIF 88%. Qualify a second supplier on the most exposed fibres/SKUs before tight fibre supply stretches lead times.

Tanneries (hides & leather)

Hides & leather · £4m spend

Low

Score

OTIF

91%

RMA

1.5%

DPO

44d

Move: Push terms — paying in 44d vs the 45-day target. Stretching to terms on £4m keeps cash in the business at no cost.

The full panel

Every supplier, one row

Spend, score, delivery, terms and risk.

Supplier	Category	Spend	Score	OTIF	RMA	DPO	Risk
NZ / merino wool growers	Wool & natural fibre	£14m	90	94%	1.4%	48d	Low
Hand-knotting ateliers (India / Nepal / Thailand)	Hand-knotting	£12m	88	86%	1.8%	50d	Medium
European fabric mills (Italy / France)	Weaving mills	£11m	91	93%	1.1%	46d	Low
Silk filament suppliers (China/India)	Silk & fibre	£9m	86	90%	2%	45d	Medium
Dye houses & finishing	Dyeing & finishing	£5m	84	88%	2.3%	42d	Medium
Tanneries (hides & leather)	Hides & leather	£4m	87	91%	1.5%	44d	Low